Nc'nean: Stories of Sustainability
Whisky is created using nature's gifts of barley, water and yeast, so it makes sense to reward Mother Nature, instead of simply take. This is where Nc'nean's unique name is drawn. Neachneohain, known as the Queen of Spirits in Gaelic legend, was a fierce protector of nature.
Heading from The Whisky Shop HQ in Glasgow, our team travelled to the remote peninsula to discover just exactly how the UK's first net zero distillery operates and the first fully organic whisky is made. We meet with Amy Stammers, Head of Sustainability and her excited dog, Doug, for an intensive journey through the production process - and a taste of a few drams too.
The Drimnin Estate itself is vast - 8,000 acres - with the distillery perched atop a hill overlooking the Sound of Mull and the colourful houses of Tobermory only just visible across the water. During our drive, Amy shares that much of the timber used to power the distillery is taken from a section of the estate, and that they have reintroduced red squirrels to the surrounding woodland - a perfect habitat for the endangered animals.
On arriving, its immediately obvious that sustainability runs right through Nc'nean from top to bottom. The premises is housed within a converted farmhouse, the gorgeous whisky bottles are used as vases in the tasting room, there are reusable towels for drying hands in the bathroom, wild rhubarb for the taking and a re-fill-your-old-bottle station within the shop.
Our first stop is the furnace in which Nc'nean burns its biomass, which generates not only the massive amounts of heat required for distillation, but also the electricity for everything else in the premises - including the lights in the visitor centre. We then make our way to the mill, where Amy explains the sustainable farming methods used to make the organic barley.
"We have one farm in Fife, and another in Aberdeenshire which produce very good quality grain - that is grown organically - and they look after the soil very well. Healthy soil feeds healthy plants, which gives you great flavour. We attribute a lot of our flavour and viscosity to the organically grown barley."
Amy Stammers
Annabel and Nc'nean were advised by the revered Dr. Jim Swan prior to production and, with a view to extract as much flavour as possible for a young whisky, he recommended a focus on brewers yeasts. The fermentation process at Nc'nean principally drives the flavour of the spirit, and by using experimental yeasts such as rum yeast, champagne yeast and red wine yeast, they can produce a massively fruity new make.
Here, the team are devising a plan with the University of Edinburgh to convert their draff (a bioproduct of malted barley) into bio char, and to undergo carbon capture with the Co2 produced by fermentation. Despite achieving net zero, reducing their water usage by 90%, and relying solely on renewable energy, its clear that Nc'nean views their sustainability efforts as an ongoing mission rather than a tick-box USP.
Finally, we reach the still house. As well as being powered entirely by biomass, the water used to condense the precious new make is drawn from a lake of collected rainwater, which is fed back once used. The same volume of water is re-used again and again, for distillation - another gift from nature.
An avocado plant spirals up from the lower level, which Amy jokes is 'the most sustainably grown avocado in the world'. Planted when the distillery was finding its feet, it thrives in greenhouse-like conditions and is fed plenty of water from the collected rainfall.
It was now time for us to be granted a sneak peek at the next Quiet Rebels release. With each bottling named after someone who works for Nc'nean, the series pays tribute to those who have made their mission a reality, and this time - it's Amy. As Head of Sustainability, she chose to source casks from a winery in France which also champions sustainability in their production.
I wanted to talk not just about sustainability in our supply chain, but reflect good practice for the industries which use these barrels before we do. So, I found a vineyard in France which are doing incredible things for biodiversity and the soil, and producing great fortified wine - Morey- which I like!
Amy
Now for a taste! Quiet Rebels Amy is gorgeously sweet and fruity, with notes of sticky toffee pudding, delicate spice and strong waves of stewed blackberries and cherries. A real treat of both taste and story.
A dram of their flagship Nc'nean Organic Single Malt whisky was in order, too - a favourite in taste as well as in looks - which bursts with orchard fruits and spicy rye bread, lifted by hints of lemon balm.
You'll surely spot this dram in a whisky bar, with a bottle more reminiscent of an extra-large perfume bottle than a whisky. This was intentional. Annabel, as well as crafting a bottle made from 100% recycled materials, chose the design to reflect their attitude towards whisky. An antithesis to the traditional, a whisky for everyone, a dram which stands out. The liquid itself is endlessly approachable to boot.
Thank you to Amy for our fabulous tour, and all at Nc'nean for their help.
Check out Nc'nean, here.